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The latest trends, techniques, and insider secrets—revealed.

Variety Show
From punk rock to posh refinement, L.A.’s fall shows offered a little something for everyone.
By Carla Gonzalez-Hart

Oh, what a difference a season makes! Just when it looked like Los Angeles had shed it edgy roots in favor of a more sophisticated vibe, designers sent an array of eclectic styles down the runways, proving once again that the City of Angels plays by its own rules. Some of the trends mirrored those seen in other cities—leggings, ruffles, plaid, the unmistakable air of S&M. And yes, there was plenty of black to go around, too. But by the time it hit L.A., the sobriety that swept through New York, Milan, and Paris got a well-deserved shot of whimsy (also confirming that West Coasters haven’t lost their sense of humor). Other designers, caught up in the lure of old Hollywood or rocker glam, appeared to be immune to the trends all together, or just hell-bent on railing against them. Here, the top six looks from fall 2006 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios.

Gender Bender
Menswear-inspired styles got lean and mean at Louis Verdad, with several austere ensembles in black and white. Sleek tuxedo pants, pencil skirts, and patent-leather gloves combined for a look that was pure Marlene Dietrich, but the designer quickly changed pace, softening the severity with sumptuous knits in a muted palette of taupes and lattes. Later, vibrant hues like robin’s egg and ochre popped up on plaid wool blazers and multitonal sweaters, while cherry red, burnt orange, and baby blue made their way onto stiletto boots, clutches, and ultrawide belts. Military- and Asian-inspired flourishes heightened the dimension, while the eveningwear featured shredded ruffles—a detail that gave the collection an Edwardian feel. Another ruffle enthusiast was Jennifer Nicholson, whose aptly named Happily Ever After show called on the feminine embellishment to convey a dreamier, more ethereal vision.

East Meets West
In keeping with his Gotham roots, David Meister presented sleek silhouettes in a stark palette of black and white. Clingy turtlenecks, V-necks, and tailored jackets were worn with the skinniest of black pants for a series of beatnik-inspired looks, while a white jacket with topstitching and newsboy cap conveyed a mod mood. Possibly a little too much coverage for L.A.’s mild winters, but the look could certainly translate to the East Coast or to a West Coaster’s weekend ski trips. At the show’s end, Meister unveiled a troupe of goddess dresses in neutral tones, along with a strapless floor-skimming scarlet gown—a dazzling dress that gave the collection a shot of color. Red eveningwear also provided showstopping moments on the Alan del Rosario and Kevan Hall runways.

Elegance After Dark
Has Oscar de la Renta moved to L.A.? No, it’s just grandeur of Bradley Bayou, who presented one of the week’s most opulent collections in blacks, whites, and metallics. Rich heavy satins and chic buckled belts represented a return to Jackie O (albeit not as literally as Uriel Saenz’s pillbox hats did), while several capacious skirts hinted at the designer’s fascination with volume. First-time fashion week presenter Bebe also offered alluring eveningwear that tinkered with proportion, most notably its poufy tulip skirts. Cascading multitiered gowns in gray, silver, black, and ruby combined the glamour of old Hollywood with the glory of the garden. Even a coat with a petal-shaped collar took its cue from the tulip, which served as a unifying theme throughout.

All Wrapped Up
In somber blacks and grays, Juan Carlos Obando conjured a powerful, mysterious woman swathed in fabric and cinched at the waist. Plunging necklines combined with skinny leggings, red leather gloves, wide ornamented belts, and hints of black illusion. While the focus of Obando’s femme fatale was clearly the waist (as was also the case on countless runways, including Anthony Franco’s), other designers offered a more body-balanced vision. At Ya-Ya, long, lean silhouettes ruled the runway, and leather made an appearance in virtually every ensemble, including the show’s highlight, a head-to-toe S&M-inspired outfit. The body-hugging black leather maxi coat, straight out of The Matrix, encapsulated the show’s no-nonsense, secret-agent feel—a mood that, not surprisingly, reached full-on dominatrix levels at Agent Provocateur.

Color Field
In sharp contrast to most of the week’s subdued palettes, L.A. native and Project Runway alum Kara Saun sent sexy bias-cut gowns down the runway in a rainbow of luxe jewel tones, from emeralds and teals to midnights blues and crimsons. A steel gray somehow found its way into the mix, but in no way implied a dreary minimalism. All of Saun’s 1930s-inspired garments were underscored with a refreshing air of optimism and topped with ultrafeminine twists like sheer sleeves, lace overlays, and rich brocades. Equally colorful, Deborah Lindquist’s anime-inspired designs lit up the runway like the neon lights in downtown Tokyo. Bright violet and scarlet tights were worn beneath pencil skirts and paired with sheer fishnet tops along with randomly placed leather straps. The parade of eclectic details included fleur-de-lis appliqués, rich Asian embroidery, scarves adorned with skull-and-crossbone designs, and traditional tartan, a print that also made its way onto the Morphine Generation runway and morphed into a more modern plaid at Chulo Pony.

Pretty in Punk
At Antik Denim, punk-rock aggression yielded a sexy collection reminiscent of early Vivienne Westwood. Silver hardware, fishnet, and heavy metal tees were combined with seemingly traditional fall garments, like menswear vests and houndstooth blazers (covered with ample zippers, for good measure). But denim, of course, was the star of the show, and this fall’s skinny cigarette styles looked as if they were painted on (be prepared to zip these up breathing in and lying down, girls). Although the label played with lighter washes and even candy-colored denims last season, this fall yielded strictly black, gray, and dark washes. Jean embellishment is a thing of the past for now, but the styles did demonstrate some interesting pocket placements—a trend that continued at Yanuk, Taverniti, Buffalo Denim, and Rock & Republic.

Rock Stars

At the Tavertini show, DuWop cofounder Cristina Bartolucci and celebrity hairstylist Danilo created an dramatic look fit for a rock goddess—a shocking red eye, pink stained cheek, pale dewy lip, and a welter of loose, unstructured waves. To re-create the look, follow Bartolucci’s lead: Blend DuWop Revolution Face in Caitlin over your skin, followed by a dusting of Bronzerush in June and a translucent pink stain on the apples of cheeks, blending out toward the temples. For eyes, apply DuWop Blush Therapy in Retreat from the lash line to the crease, blending slightly with your finger above the crease. Sweep a fine-tipped brush dipped into the base amber shade of the Amber Eyes palette along the lower lash line, and follow with two coats of Lashlacquer mascara in Carbon Black. For lips, Bartolucci used Anti-Venom in Zinnia topped with a coat of Venom Gloss in Buttercup.

At Antik Denim, another edgy rock-chick look emerged—this time with a smoldering steely eye, sun-kissed skin, seductive stained lip, and slightly more disheveled tresses. For the face, Bartolucci again used DuWop Revolution Face in Caitlin and Bronzerush in June, but applied Blush Therapy in Yoga upward and outward for a sexy bronze glow. To get the same smoky gunmetal look, apply the base shade of the Gray Eyes palette from the lash line to the crease, then use a slightly darker gray shade in the crease, smudging slightly upward. From there, line the upper and lower lash lines with a fine-tipped brush dipped into a cream liner and then into a silver shimmer, and apply a triple coat of Lashlacquer in Carbon Black. For lips, use Shades of Venom in Azalea, a sheer baby pink.

Photo credit: Getty Images (top row): Louis Verdad, Chulo Pony, Bradley Bayou, Juan Carlos Obando, Kara Saun, Deborah Lindquist, Ya-Ya; (bottom row) Antik Denim, Jennifer Nicholson, David Meister, Bebe, Morphine Generation, Uriel Saenz, Agent Provocateur. Courtesy of DuWop (right, top to bottom): Tavertini (2), Antik Denim (3).

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