The latest trends, techniques, and insider secrets—revealed.

Slippery When Wet
High-sheen lips with a hint of shimmer are the ultimate in summer sexiness. Check out our guide to glossing with greatness.
By Claire Sulmers

For glossaholics, it’s probably hard to imagine a world without a rainbow of lustrous lip sheens. But the cosmetic has enjoyed its fair share of ups and downs over the years. Although Max Factor invented the concoction in 1930, it took nearly a generation to catch on with the general public. And after its ’70s and ’80s heyday, gloss was soon surpassed by lipsticks and liners as part of a matte trend that lasted for nearly a decade. Nowadays, of course, lip gloss is once again the front-runner—a beauty staple that “creates youthful, sexy lips in one quick swipe,” says makeup artist Taylor Babaian of L.A.’s Cloutier Agency. Among its many advantages, it works for every age group. “For older women, it adds fullness and softness; for younger women, it creates a pretty, natural look,” explains celebrity makeup artist Jeni Lee. Here, our secrets for getting high-impact lips that don’t lose their luster.

Pick Your Poison
Today’s glosses come in virtually every form imaginable, from traditional tubes, wands, and pots to whimsical key chains, pendants, and gourmettes. Application methods vary depending on consistency, which is largely determined by the packaging. Many gloss enthusiasts prefer wand versions, which tend to be the thinnest and least sticky of the lot. Wands also offer precision via a sponge-tip or wand applicator (a sponge is quicker to use, but the brush offers more control), and many now come in double-sided forms that allow you to mix and match colors. Tubes, since they don’t require an applicator, provide ease and portability and tend to have a medium consistency, although the slanted tip can deliver a messy finish (the same can be said for rollerball versions, which are thinner but equally quick to use). Potted glosses, which are generally the densest and stickiest, offer precision but require a separate brush (to sidestep the mess, we recommend Sephora’s handy Retractable Lip Brush). So why would anyone opt for a thicker, stickier formula? Because generally, the heavier glosses have more pigmentation and last longer, Babaian explains. Conversely, “the more slip a formula has, the quicker it will wear off.” As such, thinner, sheerer versions are best applied in layers.

After you’ve decided which consistency and applicator you want, it’s time to start sampling some colors (not to mention scents). Neutrals are almost universally flattering, but ultimately what looks best will depend on your skin tone. “I like berries and plums for darker skin, soft pinks for fair complexions, and warm peaches for golden skin,” says Babaian, whose favorites include Stila Lip Glaze in Apricot and L’Oreal Colour Juice Sheer Lip Gloss in Passion Fruit Squeeze. “But when in doubt, use sheer, warm pinks—they look great on practically anyone.” Beyond color, there’s also finish to consider, and today’s glosses offer an array of options—from sheer to frosted to full-on glitter. A shimmer-free, medium-consistency formula, like M.A.C. Lipgelée, is ideal for creating iconic wet-look lips (for a subtler sheer effect, try Lancôme’s new Juicy Tubes). Shimmery glosses, which are probably the most popular category, run the gamut from soft pearlized reflectors, such as Guerlain Terracotta Gloss and Shine, to nearly metallic versions, such as Vincent Longo’s prismatic shimmer wands. Although pale frosted lips have been considered a cosmetic crime for decades, they’re back, too, and they, like their shimmery cousins, offer an added boon: The color tends to last on the lips long after the polish has worn off. And for the ultimate in glam, there are glitter glosses, like Bobbi Brown’s new limited-edition Clear Glitter version. Keep in mind that regardless of its consistency and finish, a good gloss should always be smooth and deliver even coverage, as opposed to color streaks or glittery chunks.

Go the Distance
Once you’ve found your new gloss (or a season’s worth of them), you’ll need to figure out how to achieve the best finish and make it last. Maria Maio, a New York City makeup artist, stresses the importance of prepping lips in advance. “Make sure they’re exfoliated and moisturized before bed,” she says. “Sloughing off dead skin cells will help the color adhere better and stay put.” To keep your lips smooth, we recommend applying a small amount of C.O. Bigelow Soothing Lip Buffer to lips, rubbing together, wiping off the excess, and following with a moisturizing balm. When it comes to application, all the experts agree that a neutral liner matching your natural lip color is the best tool for keeping your topcoat where you want it. “Apply it all over the lips, then finish with the gloss,” Lee suggests. (A sheer wash of foundation or a lip primer can also be helpful for creating a good base.) In addition, Maio recommends Cargo Reverse Lipliner, which locks shine in place, providing a lasting look from day to night.

Beware, however, the dangers of combining glosses with balms. “Wearing a lip balm underneath will just make the gloss run,” Lee says. If you do plan to layer your gloss, choose a jumbo lipliner that’s dense but still has some glide or a matte lipstick (as opposed to a sheer or hydrating formula), and blot with a tissue before you proceed. Once you’ve got gloss in hand, try not to overdo it. To avoid putting on too much, the experts suggest applying it to the bottom lip only, then pressing your lips together. Along these lines, you needn’t brush the glaze to every corner of your mouth—adding just a bit in the center will not only give your lips dimension, but also prevent renegade smears. Bear in mind that the shinier your lips are, the bigger they will appear, so if you want to minimize your pout for any reason, you should use it sparingly. To tone down gloss that’s too high-voltage, simply blot it with a tissue, or use the same technique to create a stained effect (another look that’s hot for summer). And one final tip: When you’re done glazing, put your finger in your mouth, wrap your lips around it, then remove your finger without opening your mouth—this will save you the potential embarrassment of walking around with gloss on your teeth.

Photo credit: Liz Van Steenburgh

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