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Sins of the Flesh
When it comes to complexion perfection, it’s what you don't do that matters most.
By Liz Funk

In an era of high-tech facials and cutting-edge creams, it’s tempting to think of skin care as a simple monetary formula—the more cash you invest, the greater the rewards. But as with most things in life, it isn’t that cut and dry: Although money can buy better products and treatments, even a box-office budget is no match for the damage many of us inflict on our bodies' biggest organ. Of course, at one time or another, we’ve all been guilty of a momentary lapse of reason (like the time we left our sunscreen at the hotel in Aruba or amputated a monster zit the night before our senior prom). However, there are also more insidious missteps that can sabotage our skin’s condition every day and even undermine our health. Here, the experts reveal their secrets for beating skin’s biggest offenders.

A Place in the Sun
It’s been said before, but it bears repeating: Sun exposure is the leading cause of skin damage and skin cancer. So if you’re baking on the beach or at the tanning salon, be aware that your golden glow is unsafe and potentially lethal. And even if you’re slathering yourself in sunscreen, the dangers are still very real. “Sitting in the sun, whether you’re wearing an SPF product or not, is the worst thing a woman can do for her skin,” says celebrity dermatologist Dr. Frederic Brandt. “The UVA/UVB rays slowly unglue the framework of collagen and elastin, resulting in premature skin aging—sagging, fine lines, leathery texture, enlarged pores, dull complexion, broken blood vessels, uneven pigmentation, and age spots.” Since prevention is far easier than repair, avoid sun exposure whenever possible, and apply sunscreen generously and repeatedly every day, even in the winter. When choosing a sunscreen, look for an SPF of 30 or higher and UVA blockers such as oxybenzone, titanium dioxide, Parsol 1789, or the newly FDA-approved Mexoryl. But again, remember that sunscreens aren’t a license to fry—even the most potent products can’t protect you completely.

Smoke and Mirrors
By now, we’re all familiar with the dangers of smoking: heart disease, emphysema, all sorts of cancers. In addition to what appears on the warning labels, smoking can have serious impacts on our skin. “Smoking weakens the enzymes’ ability to repair and produce collagen, and its effects are similar to those of sun exposure,” Brandt explains. Because the toxins, or free radicals, keep oxygen from reaching the skin, they break down its capacity to protect itself—an effect skin-care therapist Stacy Cox has seen firsthand: “Smoking robs the skin of its natural beauty, replacing fresh, glowing complexions with dull, dingy ones.” Just think of the smell as a tip-off. “If you come into close contact with someone who smokes, you can smell the toxins—they’re in the pores,” Cox says. Although abstinence is the best prevention, even if you smoke several packs a day, quitting is within your control. With the help of a support network and nicotine-replacement products, you may find that kicking the habit is easier than you thought it would be.

High and Dry
Parched skin doesn’t cause wrinkles, but dryness can greatly enhance the appearance of them. While some oily-skinned gals might think that a little dryness is a good thing, they shouldn’t abandon their moisturizers or resign themselves to harsh scrubs and astringents. “If you tone and slough too much, you’re only asking for trouble,” says Cox. As it turns out, such products can actually encourage skin to produce more oil. “Using a toner too often or using one that’s too harsh will cause a pH imbalance,” Brandt explains. “That imbalance can leave the skin overly dry, oily, or both, and make it more susceptible to infections, rashes, and premature aging.” Instead, the experts recommend a daily regimen of gentle cleansing and moisture; reserving toners for occasional use or skipping them completely; and exfoliating with extra care (while vigorous twice-a-day scrubbing is fine for feet, it’s sure to leave your face looking worse than when you started). Along these lines, many women pile on multiple products, figuring that the more they use, the better the results. Again, the less-is-more rule applies: “Products from various lines can interfere one another and result in breakouts or no results at all,” Brandt asserts. As such, he advocates sticking to one skin-care line and using it as directed.

Pop Culture
Unless you’ve been blessed with a perfect complexion (and what’s the chances of that?), you’ve probably popped at least one zit—or 30—in your lifetime. While it might feel cathartic, self-surgery can leave lasting scars and, because you’re using your hands, spread bacteria to other parts of your face. The results? New cysts, blackheads, and whiteheads—“a garden of fun,” Cox relates. For a more sensible solution, rely on salicylic-acid and benzoyl-peroxide products; medicated cleansers can prevent blemishes from forming, while spot treatments can reduce the life cycle of existing zits. Remember to remove your makeup and cleanse your skin every night before bed (another all-too-common transgression). If your acne is more severe, talk to your dermatologist about stronger solutions, such as Tazorac, Retin-A, oral contraceptives, or laser therapy. And no matter what your skin's condition, be sure to see your dermatologist at least once a year. “A doctor can check for cancer, precancerous legions, and skin disorders,” Brandt says. “Ultimately, he or she can provide the best care to keep your skin looking young and healthy for as long as possible.”

Photo credit: Kateryna Govorushchenko

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