beauty addict

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The latest trends, techniques, and insider secrets—revealed.

Seeing Red
Forget the blonde v. brunette debate—fiery shades of red make a sexier statement.
By Erin Roop

Nowadays, celebrities change their hair color at the drop of a hat—even more quickly than they change their boyfriends. One day, they’re platinum blonde; the next, they’re dark chocolate; and before you know it, they’ve switched to a golden brown, deep chestnut, or rich caramel. But while those color chameleons are busy lightening and darkening their locks, other stars are indulging in a more unexpected spectrum: head-turning, sizzling shades of red.

For some celebrities, like Lindsay Lohan, it’s just one of the many hues in their hair-color repertoire, but for others, like Julianne Moore, red has become a signature part of their persona. Its enduring appeal? “Red makes a bold, self-confident statement,” says hairstylist Billy Lowe, who has worked with such iconic redheads as Marcia Cross, Debra Messing, and Tori Amos. At the same time, however, it’s arguably the hardest color to achieve and maintain. In an effort to go red the right way, we asked our hair gurus for their secrets.

Watch Your Tone
Although anyone can be a redhead, colorists are quick to point out that it’s easier for some women to pull off these shades than others. “People with fair skin and pink undertones are best suited to red,” according to Wolf, of the Jim Wayne Salon in Beverly Hills. That said, as long as the right shade and tone are used, even girls with golden and olive skin tones should be able to find a red look they love. In general, the lighter your natural hair color, the lighter the shade you should strive for. And when it comes to finding your base color, consider your complexion: If your skin is cool (pinkish with blueish veins) you should generally stick with cooler, blue-based tones, like strawberry, cherry, ruby, or mahogany; if you’re warm (a yellow cast with greenish veins), it’s best to opt for warmer, orange-based hues, such as copper, russet, or auburn. However, these guidelines only apply if you want to achieve the most natural-looking result; if you’re going for a more “supernatural” look, you might be better off inverting the color paradigm.

Be Pro-active
Since going red requires finding the perfect color match, it’s generally a feat best left to the experts. What’s more, if your dream shade is lighter than your natural color or requires the careful placement of highlights, it’s wise to take a trip to the salon since bleaching and multitonal looks can be tricky to master at home. But if you’ve settled on a flattering monochromatic shade, you should be able to achieve good results with a basic drugstore kit. As for highlighted looks, there’s also a D.I.Y. solution: “If someone doesn’t want to go to a pro, I recommend picking up a color wand at a beauty-supply store,” says Dominick Riccardo, of David Alan's Grand Salon and Spa in Paramus, New Jersey. “It looks like a mascara wand and allows for the easy application of temporary color. It will only last until the hair is washed, but it enables you to try out different shades without the commitment.”

Dye Hard
If you’ve decided to give it a go at home with a monochromatic shade, it’s time to purchase your hair color. Keep in mind that at-home kits fall into one of three categories: demi-permanent (lasts up to 8 eight shampoos), semi-permanent (lasts up to 25 shampoos), and permanent (lasts indefinitely). Assuming your strands aren’t already bleached or highlighted, demi and semi kits are generally considered to be safer options that will allow you to ease into your new color. In all cases, though, it’s best to conduct weekly deep-conditioning treatments until a few days before you dye. And 48 hours prior, be sure to do a patch test for allergies. If you’re not allergic, you can move on to the strand test, which will give you a preview of the end color. Since there are various factors that will determine the end result, including your starting color, hair type, and texture, the strand test will give you a more accurate gauge than the shade guide. If you don’t like the preview, you can simply restart your search. If you do like it, you’re ready to dye, which means starting with clean hair—no hairspray or product buildup—and following the kit’s directions to a T. Keep in mind that you can call the 800 number on the box or label anytime; companies like L’Oreal and Clairol are staffed with support experts to help answer your questions.

Don’t Get Caught Red Handed
One underpublicized glitch of D.I.Y. dyeing? The effect it can have on your skin. Kate Page, a beauty consultant for Avenue You Boutique, emphasizes the importance of using the kit’s gloves to protect your hair, nails, and cuticles. To safeguard your face and neck, she recommends applying Vaseline along the hairline and behind your ears and neck, and wrapping your neck in a towel. If you do wind up getting dye on your skin, wipe it off immediately with a paper towel, and rinse the area with water. If you don’t notice the dye until after the deed is done—and your skin looks like something out of the shower scene from Psycho—wash the spots thoroughly with soap and water. And if that doesn’t work, there are a few other tricks at-home dyers swear by: rubbing the affected area with toothpaste, a good exfoliant, or cigarette ash (not the burning kind, of course).

Get a Quick Fix
Assuming you’ve followed the experts’ advice, you’ll probably be smitten with your new tresses, but there are some cases that require a little tweaking. If the shade makes you look too pale, you probably went too deep; if your skin has an orange cast, you most likely went too warm. In both cases, trying to fix the problem yourself usually makes matters worse, so get to a salon as soon as possible (the sooner color correction is attempted, the more successful it will be because the dye hasn’t settled completely into the cuticle yet). On the other hand, if your hair simply looks a little too bright, wash it a few times with an anti-dandruff shampoo, and the problem may take care of itself (keep in mind that red hair fades quickly, so ideally, it should be a bit more vibrant post-dyeing than you ultimately want it to look). Also remember that a hair-color change usually calls for a different makeup palette. While it can be hard to match dark, smoky eyes with red hair, “pinks, bronzes, and golds tend to look good on redheads,” says Riccardo, who recommends taking a trip to the cosmetics counter to experiment with new shades.

Make It Last
For all its many virtues, red is, unfortunately, the fastest hair color to fade, and roots are harder to conceal with red hair than with some other shades. As such, “being a redhead is a true commitment that requires maintenance,” Lowe stresses. Part of that maintenance, according to Riccardo, means touching-up your roots every three to four weeks. You’ll also need to invest in color-conserving shampoos and conditioners, preferably ones with UV filters to prevent fading. Color-depositing products or glazes can be helpful, but they shouldn’t be used too frequently (once a week maximum). And finally, one of the best things you can do to keep your color fresh is wash your hair as little as possible. If you’re used to shampooing every day, try to limit yourself to three times a week (dry shampoos can be a godsend between washes).

Photo credit: Angela Keane

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