The latest trends, techniques, and insider secrets—revealed.

Greener Pastures
Once regarded as a fleeting fad, the natural cosmetics market is now growing in leaps and bounds. Here, a complete guide to going green.
By Zoe Stagg

Just five short years ago, the term “natural cosmetics” conjured little more than visions of colorless lip balm and swirling crystal-rock deodorant. Although there were some earthy beauty offerings on the shelves, even eco-conscious gals who bought organic tofu dogs from Trader Joe’s wouldn’t dream of giving up their tried-and-true mascaras. After all, cosmetics are, by their very definition, anything but natural. Nevertheless, somewhere along the way, it dawned on us: If we’re so aware of what we’re putting into our bodies, shouldn’t we be equally concerned with what we’re putting on our skin?

The answer, according to Kim D’Amato, owner of New York City’s Priti Organic Spa, is a resounding yes: “Our skin is our calling card, and it envelops the whole body. One square inch contains approximately 71 million feet of blood vessels, 300 feet of nerves, 20 million cells, 100 sebaceous glands, and 650 sweat glands. Considering all the ingredients found in standard beauty products, every woman should ask herself, ‘Do I really want that on my skin?’” Dr. Alan Dattner, president of Holistic Dermatology in New York, concurs: “Many conventional products contain ingredients that have suggestions of carcinogens. I choose natural products because they’re safer, and I find they cause fewer side effects.”

The Good Earth
The experts aren’t alone: Thanks in no small part to pioneering natural brands, high-profile green gurus, and new research about what’s really in our staple formulas, today there are millions of natural-beauty converts. What’s more, according to the U.S. Market for Natural Personal Care Products, the natural and organic cosmetics market is expected to reach $5.8 billion by 2008—an average growth rate of about 9 percent a year since 2003. For many, the question is no longer whether to go green; it’s which products to select among the countless number of natural offerings today.

But it should be noted that not everyone is raving. Several critics have dismissed the trend as a marketing ploy, and in some cases, they have a point. At present, there's no standardized labeling system to ensure that natural products are the real deal. Plus, just because something is chemical-free that doesn’t mean it’s good for you. If you have an allergy to a natural ingredient, for example, it will cause more harm than good, while a degraded herbal ingredient may be more toxic than its synthetic counterparts.

Warning Signs
That said, there’s compelling evidence that the some cosmetic ingredients have serious side effects—and we’re not talking just a temporary rash. If you scan the labels of your favorite formulas and find that they contain any of the following, you may want to consider making a switch.
Parabens: An antimicrobial preservative, parabens can be found in everything from shampoos and shaving creams to lotions and shower gels. Because parabens are estrogenic, disrupting normal hormone function, studies suggest that they may contribute to breast cancer. They are often listed on cosmetic labels as methylparaben, ethylparaben, p-propylparaben, isobutylparaben, n-butylparaben, and benzylparaben.
Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP): Used to improve the staying power of nail polish, hair spray, and sunscreen, DBP has been linked to cancer in lab animals and to reproductive impairments in boys who have been exposed in utero. In response to pressure from The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, brands like Orly, OPI, and Sally Hansen have already begun removing DBP from their products, and Avon, Estée Lauder, Revlon, and L'Oreal have all confirmed that they will follow suit.
Aluminum: Many studies have established a link between aluminum and increased risks of Alzheimer's disease/dementia. In addition to its use in medicines, cookware, and food additives, aluminum salts are a common ingredient in deodorants, antiperspirants, and other cosmetics.
Sodium Lauryl and Laureth Sulfate (SLS): A detergent used in shampoos, cleansers, and bath products, SLS may contribute to skin irritation and, it is believed, hairloss and cataracts. It has also been reported that when SLS interacts with other cosmetic ingredients, it can produce cancer-causing nitrosomines (nitrates), although other sources assert than no such links exist.
Propylene Glycol: A humectant used in shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and deodorants, propylene glycol has been linked, in some studies, with skin irritation, liver abnormalities, and kidney damage. It should be noted that other studies have concluded that it’s safe for cosmetic use.

Pure Principles
While regulations are spotty regarding what can be labeled as green, this cheat sheet will help you get closer to uncovering whole truth.
Natural: Buyer beware. Although it’s generally understood that natural ingredients should come from plant sources, the FDA doesn’t regulate the use of the term “natural.” As such, it’s not unusual for a company to take a chemical formula, add a drop of honey, and claim that it’s natural. When trying to decode this category, it’s especially important to read the label and look up any ingredients you’re unfamiliar with (Ruth Winter's A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients is a good resource).
Organic: Unlike the natural label, the term “organic” is regulated by the USDA’s National Organic Program, which specifies that it may only appear on those products that conform to the regulations put forth by the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB). These regulations encompass all steps of manufacturing—no pesticides on the plants used, no irradiation, no fertilizers, no preservatives. Products labeled “100 percent organic” or “organic” (the latter means at 95 percent “organic”) come with the USDA seal, while those that are at least 70 percent organic may say “made with organic ingredients.”
Mineral: If you’ve caught a late-night infomercial or strolled though the cosmetics aisle lately, you’re already familiar with mineral makeup. These formulas get their pigment from earth minerals, and most include zinc oxide and titanium oxide (each of which offers UV protection). While 100% pure mineral products should be free of preservatives, talc, oil, fragrance, and other potential skin irritants, ingredients vary from company to company. So again, check the label, and look up any additives you’re unfamiliar with.
Holistic: Although the term is unregulated, these products generally strive to keep the big picture in mind, tacking not only the symptoms of beauty issues, but also their sources. Such products usually contain natural extracts, and in some cases, they come in eco-friendly packaging too. According to Dattner, the goal of holistic skin care is to return ailing skin to its natural, self-sufficient state.
Homeopathic: With these remedies, ailments are addressed using the “like cures like” theory: By introducing small amounts of a substance that’s ailing you into your system, your body will better adapt. So, for example, if you have oily skin, a standard cleanser might encourage oil overproduction as a response, while a cleansing oil would help the skin achieve a healthy equilibrium.

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