The latest trends, techniques, and insider secrets—revealed.

Blonde Ambition
Admit it, you’ve got it—and so do we. Here, the experts reveal their no-fail secrets for achieving and maintaining your dream shade.
By Jenna Mahoney

It’s often been said that blondes have more fun. And if being an A-lister equates with good times, that age-old maxim is probably true. From Betty Grable to Gwen Stefani, scores of style setters have built carefree images and serious careers around their platinum tresses, while others, like Grace Kelly and Kate Bosworth, have relied on more subdued hues to exude an air of cool contentment. Even the so-called dumb blondes always manage to get the last on-screen laugh (think bombshells like Marilyn Monroe, Cameron Diaz, Jessica Simpson). And countless other celebs are also synonymous with successful dyeing, from Madonna and BFF Gwyneth Paltrow to recent red-carpet regulars like Reese Witherspoon and Michelle Williams. But achieving and maintaining golden-girl status can be a challenge, even for the rich and famous (let’s take a moment to reflect on the Julia Roberts and Cher dye-job disasters). That’s why we rounded up a panel of leading colorists to answer our most pressing questions about lightening up. The only question left for you: Are you ready to have more fun?

Tone Deft
“Anyone can be a blonde, if you choose the right tone,” insists Melissa Bridges, color director of OC61 Salon in New York City, who has worked with Faith Hill and Nicole Kidman. If you were fair-haired as a child, returning to a similar shade will get you the most natural-looking result. But if you’ve never been blonde before, you’ll need to consider your skin tone and choose a shade accordingly. “Those with fair skin and pink undertones tend to look best as ashy and icy blondes, while warmer skin types look better with honey tones,” says Mike Petrizzi, colorist at the Antonio Prieto Salon in New York City. Golden and strawberry blonde shades can also be flattering to warm complexions, while olive-toned girls tend to look best with cooler buttery or champagne hues. Not sure which shade is right for you? Take a trip to a wig shop—that way, you can try on several shades without commitment. Keep in mind that the same makeup you wore as a brunette probably won’t flatter you as a blonde. It will take some experimenting to find your perfect palette, but in general, peachy and more muted shades are good choices, along with brown eyeliner (black can look harsh and unnatural on blondes).

Easy Does It
If you’re not ready to take the full-blown blonde plunge, highlights will allow you to ease into your new color in stages, not to mention enhance your hair’s dimension. “They break up a solid, dull base, which also helps to camouflage incoming grays,” says Petrizzi. Along those lines, highlights require less maintenance: With single-process color, you’ll need to touch up your roots every four to six weeks, while highlighted heads can easily go 12 weeks. Plus, they’ll keep you from making the most common hair-coloring mistake—doing too much too soon. On the other hand, the experts are quick to point out that monochromatic color has its benefits. “A rich, solid base color that’s mostly one tone is dramatic and brings focus to the face,” says Petrizzi. Bridges agrees: “Monochromatic color is shinier and more dramatic because a solid surface reflects more light.”

Pros and Cons
Still unsure of your shade? It’s time to seek out salon help. “A professional will provide an expert consultation, analyze your hair type, and formulate the perfect color for you,” says Petrizzi. What’s more, if you want highlights or a dramatic change, the experts all encourage you to leave it to the pros. And don’t even think about going platinum alone: As Tim Rogers, editorial spokesperson for Charles Worthington London, explains, “It’s the hardest shade to achieve.” Hair that has previously been colored, permed, relaxed, or chemically straightened is also unsuitable for DIY coloring (and most likely, even pro dyeing). This isn’t to say you can’t save both money and time by going blonde at home—just start with unprocessed hair and stick with a monochromatic transformation. “One overall color is easier and more attainable than a multitonal, highlighted effect,” says Petrizzi. In addition, plan on staying within three or four levels of your natural color. What are levels? Each color company has its own shade chart, but in general, hair color is divided into ten levels from dark to light (black is usually one, medium brown is five, medium blonde is eight, and pale blonde is ten).

Live and Let Dye
If you decide to DIY, figure out your natural level first to determine your starting point. At-home hair color falls into one of three categories: semi-permanent (temporary), demi-permanent (non-permanent), and permanent. To lighten strands, you’ll need to rely on a permanent formula, either a standard kit, which can lift hair two to three levels, or a high-lift, which can lighten three to four levels. Although it’s possible to lighten hair more than four shades, it generally requires one or several double-process sessions to strip the hair of its color before toning (again, this should be left to the pros). Also, remember that the darker you hair is to begin with, the darker the result will be. So if your natural color is light brown or dirty blonde, you should be able to achieve a medium to pale blonde result; if you’re starting with dark to medium brown, a light brown to dark blonde is more realistic. For girls with very dark brown or black hair, trying to go too blonde without double-processing can, at best, result in a medium brown color and, at worse, a Ronald McDonald look—another reason to seek out salon help. When choosing a kit, be sure to look at the shade guide on the side of the box (the model on the front and the display swatches can be misleading). And pay close attention to the tone: Words like “ash,” “iridescent,” “vanilla,” and “beige” imply cool colors; “strawberry,” “gold” and “sun” connote warmth; and “naturals” or “neutrals” are in between. If you want a warm look, you may find that neutrals are the best choice because, when hair is lightened (especially if it’s dark to begin with), it tends to take on an orange or brassy tint; likewise, if you want a neutral result, a cool shade might be your best bet.

Home Free
Once you’ve found your formula, keep in mind that it’s serious stuff containing peroxide and ammonia, so you need to follow the instructions to a T. Since coloring can be caustic, experts recommend boosting your hair’s health with a humectant conditioner for a few weeks before you dye until two days beforehand, and 48 hours prior, be sure to do a patch test for allergies. If you’re not allergic, you can move on to the strand test, which will give you a preview of the end color. Since there are various factors that will determine your lift level and tone aside from your starting color (most notably, your hair type and texture), the strand test will give you a more accurate gauge than the shade guide. If you don’t like the preview, you can simply restart your search. If you do like it, you’re ready to dye, which means starting with clean hair—no hairspray or product buildup—applying a moisturizer around your hairline to keep color off your skin, and distributing the color evenly, using the kit’s gloves. Keep in mind that you can call the 800 number on the box or label anytime; companies like L’Oreal and Clairol are staffed with support experts to help answer your questions. Most important, time the process carefully, again following the kit’s instructions. Washing the color out too soon can result in unwanted redness, while leaving it on too long can leave your golden tresses looking more home-fried than homespun. If you do decide to try highlights at home, be sure to stick with a kit (re-creating the neatly folded foils you see at the salon is harder than it looks), and don’t go solo. “The safest way to ensure even coverage is to have a friend help with the application,” advises Bridges.

Beyond the Pale
With some luck, you’ll be delighted with your newly blonde tresses. If you’re unhappy, there’s still more work to be done. If your shade just needs a little tweaking (say, making strands a bit less brassy), you can make the revisions at home with a toner. But if the level is off, the tone isn’t right, or the color is uneven, book an appointment for color correction. Once you’ve achieved your best blonde, you’ll want to follow a few rules to keep it looking vibrant. Don’t wash your hair right away after the initial rinse, and when you do shampoo, heed Bridges’s advice: “Don’t use hot water.” High temperatures cause the hair shaft to expand and open, which can cause color to seep and fade, she explains. Also avoid chlorine, saltwater, and the sun—all of which can compromise your color. To combat the latter, use hair products with UV filters, or better yet, wear a hat outdoors. In addition, “Color-treating conditioners help lock in color pigments while leaving hair stronger and shinier,” says Rogers. When it’s time to address your roots, follow the instructions for touch-ups (most kits come with an insert containing directions for both full-head application and upkeep). Although some manufacturers recommend “pulling” the color through your already-lightened hair each time to refresh your shade, overlapping can lead to damage, so proceed with caution. And finally, be sure to maintain your trimming routine—that way, instead of a strawlike mane, you’ll have a healthy head of silky blonde strands.

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