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The hottest trends straight off the runways.

 
Some Like It Hot
Spring 2004 fashion smolders with retro glamour.

By Tara Mattarazzo

In a year of campaigns and congressional catfights, the spring collections were also at odds, spanning an eclectic spectrum from reserved to risqué. Hollywood’s iconic leading ladies (Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly) inspired kinder, gentler clothes in confectionery colors, while silver-screen sirens (Jean Harlow, Brigitte Bardot) sparked head-turning, femme-fatale looks. For the men, matinee idols and crooners received modern-day makeovers (think Cary Grant and Frank Sinatra meet OutKast). It may sound like a fashion free-for-all, but one common thread—retro glamour—wove its way onto virtually every runway. As the weather heats up, bask in a season of almost anything goes, including these top-ten trends:

Wild Things
Animal instincts have long ruled the urban jungle, and this summer is no exception, with slick-skinned, exotic creatures finding haute habitats on shoes, bags, and belts. Crocodile and alligator have dethroned leopard and cheetah at the top of the food chain, while lizard has assumed secondary status as the new zebra. Prada’s croco-embossed mini-suitcase, Manolo Blahnik’s alligator slides, and Coach’s Carlyle alligator-strap watch slither splendidly, but Urban Outfitters’ faux-croc doctor’s bag and Banana Republic’s croco-embossed belt are superb subspecies.

Go Gatsby
Sporty and sophisticated styles were just This Side of Paradise on the spring runways. Designers on both sides of the Atlantic paid tribute to the Jazz Age’s relaxed elegance: Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera, and Imitation of Christ epitomized American casual chic; Burberry, Alberta Ferretti, and Marni delivered a dose of Euro sport. Ralph Lauren’s madras blazer, YSL Rive Gauche’s bias-cut jersey gown, and BCBG Maxazria’s frothy chiffon dresses are ideal for a season of polo and parties. In the stores, look for languid lines, handkerchief hemlines, floral prints, and petit-fours hues. Think Scott and Zelda (without the issues).

Rock Stars
Rock may be dead—or at least in remission—but those other venerable rocks, diamonds, still provide supreme sparkle. Baubles by Tiffany, Cartier, and Harry Winston never lose their luster, but for a bit of bling without too much ka-ching, their rhinestone and crystal cousins now adorn everything from shoes to swimwear. You’ll covet Alexander McQueen’s diamanté-draped pumps and Dior’s crystal-encrusted Lucite jewelry line; Steve Madden’s nymph stilettos sparkle at a virtual steal.

Destroyed Denim
Ever since the economy took a nosedive, denim has been moving back to the future—away from its embellished incarnations and toward a grungier, early-’90s, almost antifashion aesthetic. Sandblasting, studs, and stones are things of the past, replaced by damage, deconstruction, and dirty patinas—a trend that’s likely to continue until the next boom cycle. Dolce & Gabbana’s ripped jeans, Levi’s well-worn classics, and washed denim by Earl Jeans and Seven for All Mankind are some of the season’s best bets. Pair them with blazers, vintage tees, and lingerie-inspired tops.

Gold Rush
Skin cancer and wrinkles have rendered tanning as obsolete as Ephedra. However, you can achieve a guilt-free summer glow with a range of shimmering gilt accessories, from Ritz to kitsch, Versace to Vegas. Look for a sun-kissed, 24-karat sheen on shoes, clutches, and swimwear. Versace’s backless maillot, Fendi’s clutches, and Gucci’s python sandals set the gold standard; sandals by Carlos Santana offer the Midas touch at a fraction of the cost.

White Heat
After a winter that saw Britney’s impulsive nuptials followed by the national controversy over gay marriage, it’s no surprise that wedding white is on everyone’s mind. But the latest whites have nothing to do with tulle, virginity, or stale sugared almonds; instead, they provide a clean, contemporary scheme for some of the summer’s sexiest looks. Look for crisply tailored lines in cool fabrics and accessories in revived materials, such as patent leather. Although Louis Vuitton’s Fabuleux bag is perhaps the most lustworthy, Rafe’s patent shoulder bag and motocross jackets by Hugo Boss and Andrew Marc certainly don’t pale in comparison.

Test Patterns
In the fashion lexicon, WMD has its own acronymic meaning for summer patterns: whimsical, Mod, and dotted. The season’s hottest print combines last year’s polka craze with a game of Twister for a Technicolor, dot-candy matrix on sandals and swimwear. Elsewhere, Nouveau and hibiscus patterns are trendier than ever, as are stripes that veer slightly off the straight and narrow. You’ll crave Marc Jacobs’s Roxy sandals, Hermès’s blue-and-red-striped heavy silk tie, Jimmy Choo’s satin slingbacks, and Diane von Furstenburg chiffon shifts. But you can get the look for less with Tommy Hilfiger’s chevron-patterned tie and academy shirts, Dr. Scholl’s hipster sandals, and bikinis by Bebe, Old Navy, and XOXO.

Roman Holiday
Whether your summer getaway takes you to Capri or Sardinia, or simply for a jaunt on the Hampton Jitney, you’ll travel in style in latest Mediterranean-inspired looks. The greatest escapes come in the form of vibrant prints and island-hopping ensembles from Armani, Pucci, Chloé, and Oscar de la Renta. But you can enjoy a chic excursion, with some cash to spare, in an Ibiza-invoking batik bikini by Victoria’s Secret or in Nine West’s Sisi scarf-tied sandals.

Sugar High
Low-carb converts may be swearing off sugar in droves, but confectionery colors sweetened the styles on virtually every spring runway. The most exuberant shades brightened Michael Kors’s and Moschino’s collections, while Chanel’s quilted chain bag got a candy-pink coating. To taste the rainbow without breaking the bank, try classic piqué polo shirts by Lacoste, Via Spiga’s Scrutiny sandals, and bubble-gum-inspired, chevroned tops by Guess.

Sporty Chic
The latest adaptations of activewear could inspire even the most entrenched couch potato to hightail it to the gym. This spring, surfer style took center stage at Anna Sui, while speed-racing ruled at Gucci and Betsey Johnson. Look for brightly colored board shorts, flats and flip-flops, and racing stripes on dresses, pants, and jackets. Prada Sport’s striped tracksuit and Narciso Rodriguez’s linen-canvas dress are all-stars; runners up include American Eagle Outfitters’ surf shorts and Puma’s two-tone velour jacket.

 

 
Photo Credit : Katja Govorushchenko
 
 

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