The hottest trends straight off the runways.

Mission Control
A somber sophistication mixed with a cool ’80s vibe ruled the fall 2006 runways.
By Jennifer Smith Tapp

When the weather heats up, throw on your flirtiest pink dress and skimpiest sandals, and wear them to death—because that’s the last you’ll be seeing of candy-colored girlie couture, at least for a while. In New York, Milan, and Paris, the fall runways heralded the coming of a decidedly cooler, more complex heroine. Gone were the wide-eyed sex kittens and gum-cracking ingenues; fall’s fashionista knows what she wants and looks unapologetically sophisticated—and sexy—getting it.

Clean and Sober
Even labels known for their playful aesthetic were suddenly all business for fall. It was somewhat shocking to see the neo-boho Marni girl go Fifth Avenue in minimalist separates and opera gloves with only scattered hints of the brand’s signature whimsy. At Luella, silk tie-neck blouses completed several uptown-inspired looks, while cropped denim jackets were paired with mature slim skirts and tailored trousers. Prada’s models were sent down the runway clutching books to signal the brand’s more serious-minded collection; tweed corsets and subtle animal prints gave the gravity a subversive edge. Color palettes were somber almost across the board, with Karl Lagerfeld, Costume National, and Rochas working primarily in blacks, charcoals, and deep browns. Even Vera Wang presented a collection that was uncharacteristically dark and pensive. 

That ’80s Show
Ask any woman if there’s a decade that begs not to be revisited, and chances are, she’ll tell you it’s the ’80s. Fortunately, designers didn’t wax nostalgic about shoulder pads, neon, or those fingerless lace gloves. Instead, their ’80s revival mostly came in the form of leggings peeking out from underneath skirts and dresses. Some did retro remarkably well, like Vena Cava, who made the legging seem both poetic and spontaneous, and Missoni, who paired them with dresses and billowing sweaters for a look that was surprisingly modern. Versace, Alice Roi, and Derek Lam all offered their own versions of the 21st-century legging, while another staple from the decade, the peplum, popped up at Balenciaga. Far from channeling Alexis Carrington, the peplum Nicholas Ghesquière crafted accented an impossibly chic little black dress that had “Audrey” written all over it. 

Mad About Plaid
A classic print if there ever was one, plaid seems to make its way onto the runway every season in one form or another, but the fall shows saw an especially broad and well-realized selection. Alexander McQueen’s Highlands-influenced version popped up on full skirts, skinny pantsuits, and drainpipe pants. The cut and tailoring of the pieces, along with the saturated, electric red hues, transformed a classic motif into a look that was sexy and powerful. At Marc Jacobs’s highly anticipated show, dark disheveled plaids recalled the early-’90s collection that put the designer on the map, while Behnaz Sarafpour and Carolina Herrera’s muted versions yielded wearable fall staples.

The Gold Standard
As with carbs and red meat, moderation is key when it comes to wearing metallics. Many designers sprinkled their fall collections with gold to varying degrees of success. Using a steady hand, Dries van Noten embellished skirts with gold leaf and used the hue to create a subtle shimmer on botanical-print dresses. Anna Sui’s trademark bohemian pieces shone with carefully chosen hints of 14-karat sparkle, while at Yves Saint Laurent, hints of gold here and there added an air of opulence (and actually softened) an intentionally austere collection. But the most intriguing use of gold was by Rick Owens, who put the metallic front and center on drapey, sculptural tunics that were the essence of progressive fashion. 

Pump Up the Volume
Continuing spring’s flirtation with the endless possibilities of proportion, designers experimented with shape and form for fall. The trend materialized largely in the form of oversize coats, capes, and variations on the tulip-skirt theme. But some more adventurous souls, like Doo.Ri, took the subject a step further and challenged the concept by alternately extending and cropping her blouses and sweaters in every which way. The gorgeous skirt suits at Balenciaga and architectural capes at Alberta Ferretti were perhaps the most convincing examples of this continuing trend, while some were a little too enthusiastic in their experiments; Chloe’s and Stella McCartney’s pieces treaded the fine line between daring silhouettes and shapeless loungewear.

Hot Around the Collar
The recent dark, Victorian-inspired collections at Rochas seem to have single-handedly brought the high collar back into sharp focus. For fall, several collections featured various types of collars that sat high on the neck. Some were wide and stood away from the neck, framing the face with a dramatic cowl shape, like the sweaters at Doo.Ri. Chanel highlighted the neck as a point of interest by wrapping it high with small scarves or with tall collars on delicate capes, while the design duo at Boudicca buttoned their blouses all the way up and secured the collar with brooches and oversize buttons.

Lady in Red
In a seemingly endless sea of charcoal, brown, and black, there were a few splashes of color to brighten up the season. Carolina Herrera sent several show-stopping dresses down the runway with the red carpet in mind. Those who like a bit of color for every day will love the beautifully structured deep crimson coat by Donna Karan, which features a simple sash tie at the waist. Among the numerous pieces that he showed in red, Matthew Williamson refigured the classic trench in red wool with updated button details.

By the book: Prada’s models are sexy grad students (not Lolitas).

The peplum prevails: Nicholas Ghesquière loves the ’80s.

Up to there: Boots and scarves ride high at Chanel.

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