With the first frost right around
the corner, the spring shows can seem like exquisite torture (after all,
it will be months before we can actually wear those fabulous designs). But
seeing all the fresh, inventive styles float down the runways can
give us the fortitude to make it through another winter. Here, the top eight
trends from the spring collections and the designers who translated them
into the strongest shows of the season.
Sweet
Simplicity
At its best, minimalism can be sexier than the barest dress or the most
daring neckline. And this spring’s spin on simplicity—unlike
the more austere looks of minimalist collections past—was peppered
with soft, simple silhouettes that relied on cut and movement to deliver
maximum impact. At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz’s directional collection projected
a mature, confident sexuality, with pared-down shapes, luxurious fabrics,
sparse ornamentation, and an unwavering focus on form and proportion. The
minimalist trend even extended itself to labels traditionally known for
their embellishment, such as Project Alabama, which eased up on its trademark
embroidery and kaleidoscopic color palette in favor of lightweight sweaters
cut close to the body and skirts accented with just the slightest bit of
decoration.
Fit
to Print
Spring always seems to bring out the best in patterns, and this year designers
looked to pop art and geometry for their inspiration. At Diane von Furstenberg,
a dizzying array of prints was shown in quirky, inventive combinations,
while ’50s-style upholstery patterns were paired with skinny stripes.
The end of Stella McCartney’s show unveiled a troupe of bold print
dresses featuring oversize bits and pieces reproduced from a James Rosenquist
painting. The surprisingly glamorous result was perfectly in synch with
a collection that seemed to embrace a more grown-up version of the Stella
girl.
She’s
a Lady
After spending all winter wrapped in wool and cashmere, the prospect of
slipping into a light-as-air, feminine frock seems sublime. Everyone loves
pretty, of course, and perhaps no one does it better than Alice Temperley,
whose vibrantly hued collection of modern florals and metallic details showcased
several dresses that could be worn well into fall with boots and opaque
tights. On the other side of the color spectrum, Costello Tagliapietra offered
a small set of sophisticated jersey dresses in muted earth tones that women
who wouldn’t be caught dead in Laura Ashley will be drawn to. At Lanvin,
several garments, such as wide obi-inspired belts and modern variations
of the goddess dress, made a strong case for often-overlooked feminine zones
such as the waist and shoulder, while Missoni, Clements Ribeiro, and Nina Ricci
also offered women the kind of dewy dresses and separates we long to wear
when the weather turns warm.
Ruffles
Redux
Like a sheer blouse or a pair of sky-high stilettos, ruffles can be devastatingly
alluring or deplorably abysmal. Viktor and Rolf took the ruffle to the extreme
this season, with dresses that seemed to asphyxiate the models in flouncy
explosions. More convincing and wearable examples of the ruffle were found
at Chloé and YSL. Phoebe Philo placed them on the bodices and sleeves
of blouses and the necklines of dresses, while Stefano Pilati at YSL ran
tiny ruffles down the front of a skirt and used them to superb effect on
the dramatic collar of a sleeveless blouse.
Charming
Cutouts
Few embellishments illuminate the lightness of the season like eyelet, an
accent that adorned the hems of dresses and pants throughout countless collections.
The loveliest examples were a midnight black shirtdress at Diane von Furstenberg
and a pair of sandy linen pants from Twinkle, on which eyelet detail fell
from the knee. The accent even
showed up in an edgy leather iteration at Fendi, while Zac Posen, Antonio
Berardi, and Cacharel presented their own enchanting versions.
Volume
Play
When it comes to silhouettes, there’s little that we haven’t
seen, but this spring, designers tinkered with the volume on skirts, dresses,
and shirts. Giambattista Valli played with this idea, pairing trim tops
with tulip and balloon shapes on the bottom. At YSL, Stefano Pilati continued
the exploration of volume and proportion that he began a few seasons earlier
by showing a group of balloon skirts that tapered in at the knee for a surprisingly
easy-to-wear silhouette. Jeremy Laing, Calvin Klein, and Vera Wang also
sent out their own appealing variations on this theme.
Perfect
Pants
Although we all love a great pair of curve-hugging jeans, there’s
no denying the appeal of a well-fitting, wide-leg pant that moves gracefully
with every step we take. This trend was seen on numerous runways for spring,
including Doo Ri’s and Blumarine’s. But the best translation
was found at Chaiken, where a beautifully cut wide-leg version of the pitch-perfect
pants it's famous for, shown with a slinky long rope belt, had just
the right amount of slouch and sex appeal.
The
Empire Strikes Back
In a return engagement from the fall shows, the Empire waist set off an
array of dresses for spring, and the best examples were seen at Derek Lam
and Paco Rabanne. Lam’s presentation included a gorgeous floor-length
white gown that was featured in both a spaghetti-strap version and one cut
with cap sleeves (either would be fantastic for a progressive, low-maintenance
bride). For Paco Rabanne, Patrick Robinson went both flirty and sophisticated
with a sleeveless Empire minidresses in a bright floral pattern and an evening gown
in a toned-down metallic gray. |

Costello
Tagliapietra’s sophisticated spin on femininity. |