The best designers you’ve never heard of.

Material Girl
Vancouver designer Katherine Soucie transforms an array of unlikely materials into a chic, innovative collection.

When did you first become interested in fashion and textile design?
I’ve been obsessed with clothing and textiles since I was a child. I grew up in a small town in southwestern Ontario where fashion was something people only dreamed about, so I had to create my own designs based on styles I saw in magazines and on TV. As the youngest of five children, I reconstructed lots of hand-me-downs, as well as vintage garments I bought at local thrift stores. I was the weirdest kid on the block growing up because of what I wore.

You’ve also mentioned that the lack of available materials in Ontario prompted you to start creating your own.
Yes, the commercial fabrics in Ontario were limited; they were never quite the right color or fiber content. I realized that in order to fully execute my designs, I needed to study textiles, and once I did that, I found that anything was possible. Having a background in both fields has also enabled me to appreciate textiles on another level. Without that background, my work would be very different, both physically and aesthetically.

What prompted you to launch Sans Soucie?
When I was finishing up my studies, I created a graduating collection, the Polymer Series, which was my introduction to nylon-hosiery garments. I decided it was something that I needed to pursue further, and from there, I was awarded two scholarships that helped fund Sans Soucie’s launch.

Can you describe how the nylon-hosiery design process works?
The process involves dyeing bulk nylon hosiery that’s cut open before it's silk-screened. The silk-screening process stabilizes the material so it doesn’t run or pill and makes it completely machine-washable and -dryable. From there, the pigments are heat-set, then the pieces are sewn together and draped on a mannequin. I don’t use patterns for any of my designs. Each piece is draped, cut, and sewn individually for a custom fit.

On your website, you also mention dryer sheets. What are you using those for?
I produced a few garments using recycled dryer sheets that I embroidered and stabilized with other materials. I love taking nontraditional materials and making them functional.

Your artist statement says that your work is underscored by the concept of decay. Can you expand on that?
It rains a lot in Vancouver, so I’m surrounded by old growth cedars, moss, and industrial landscapes full of rust-covered buildings and cars. So I've learned to see the beauty in things that are in the process of decaying. The colors produced throughout the process are lovely: deep rusts, greens, golds, reds, and coppers, with various patinas.

How have your designs changed over the past few years?
My work has become more sculptural. I combine elements of ready to wear with avant-garde detailing to create work that's both visually appealing and comfortable to wear. At the moment, I'm integrating my nylon hosiery with innovative materials such as reclaimed wool-fiber-blend fabrics, bamboo knits, and fabrics that are blended with chiton, the lining of crab shells.

Where are your designs available, and what are your price points?
My designs range in price from $115 to $2,500 and are currently available at Urbanity, Circle Craft, and Tutta Mia in Vancouver; at Might Flirt in Brooklyn, New York; and at various crafts and trade shows. I'm also planning to do the 2006 Wearable Art Show in New York City and will be expanding to additional locations throughout the year.

How would you describe the Sans Soucie customer?
She's strong, confident, and sexy, and she craves individuality in her clothing. My pieces are designed for women of all ages and sizes who want high-quality, one-of-a-kind garments but also want to be comfortable. Whether worn to work or out in the evening, you'll definitely be noticed when wearing Sans Soucie.

The designer in her hand-dyed, silk-screened
Pistachio Hosiery Top ($230).

The hand-dyed, silk-screened Cocoa Mint Stripe Dress ($395).

Sans Soucie's Pomegranate Dip-Dyed Skirt in a hand-dyed
nylon/spandex blend ($175).

Photo Credits: Adam Giesbrecht, Nicole Dextras, courtesy of subject

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