The best designers you’ve never heard of.

School of Rock
With her nefarious slogan tees and punky prom gowns, L.A. designer Ali MacLean is putting the raunch back into reconstruction.

When did you first become interested in fashion design?
My parents had an antiques business, which meant weekend trips to auctions and markets, so I would buy vintage items and mix them with my regular outfits. My first creation probably involved that and some ripped rags in my hair, a la Madonna and the Bangles.

After college, you became a deejay and veejay. What led you to switch your focus to fashion?
I began making my own clothes to wear to interviews and summer rock festivals because I wanted to look unique and because it’s never too hot to look hot. People started asking me to make them clothing or, in the case of some bands, dress and style them. I did it for fun until the demand got so high that it became a full-time job.

What prompted you to start Rock-N-Role?
I was recuperating from an illness for a while, so I spent a lot of time painting T-shirts, which evolved into creating dresses and blazers. The response I got was overwhelming. The Sirens & Sailors boutique here in L.A. began carrying my line, and rock stars were buying the pieces. I figured this was how Vivienne Westwood started out, so I decided to make the leap into designing.

You mentioned your rock-star clientele. Can you divulge any names?
Fiona Apple, Bloc Party, Liz Phair, Deryck from Sum 41, Morningwood, the Blood Arm, the Prix, STUN, SDC, Idlewild, and others.

You're known for creating edgy, reconstructed garments. Can you describe how the design process works?
For me, it's like improv. I scour around for vintage items that catch my eye, rescue them, and then they become the canvas. When I get a piece into my studio, I put on some music and start deconstructing, sewing, painting, embroidering—I go wherever the piece takes me.

Your clothing is also embellished with various slogans. What do they mean to you?
Some of the slogans are lyrics I was listening to while creating a piece. Some are my snarky way of making a statement. “Rock Victim” is a battle cry for those who've survived the slime of the music biz. “I Wish Sid Vicious Was Alive” printed on the Good Charlotte tee is a reminder that today's bands need to show a little more respect to the punk bands that came before them.

And the proceeds from your Rock Victim clothes go to a battered-women's center?
Yes. I know a lot of people who’ve been hurt by others in the music biz, whether by drugs or being dumped, used, swindled, or cheated out of royalties. And I was familiar with this particular center and wanted to help them.

Where are your designs currently available, and what are your price points?
You can find them at Sirens & Sailors in L.A., at Black Flamingo in Laguna Beach, at various trunk shows, and on my website. Prices vary from $35 for a shirt or tie to $1,000 for a couture gown.

Do you have any fashion icons or role models?
There are so many influences that swirl around in my head: Debbie Harry, Joan Jett, Marc Bolan, David Bowie, Richard Hell, Stevie Nicks, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Oliver Theyskens, Moschino, Biba, Schapiarelli, Vionnet, Edith Head, Stephen Sprouse, and of course, all the dance recitals and school plays where I was swallowed up by petticoats and tulle.

What’s your signature design or garment?
Right now it’s the Shipwrecked Fairy Dress.

How has your work changed over the past few years?
I'm paying more attention to detail now. I’ve been doing a lot of embroidery and beading, and incorporating vintage iron-ons, medals, and charms. Also, my line has become a bit more upscale. I still sell T-shirts to wear to shows, but I also create blazers and dresses for other events.

How would you describe the Rock-N-Role customer?
Creative, fun, outspoken, and probably not a customer at the Gap. Most likely, they’re a rock star, or at least they live like one.

The designer models the Lust for Life Tee ($40),
emblazoned with Iggy's anthem.

The Anarchy Prom Dress (approximately $300).

Shoppers browse the Rock-N-Role racks
for slogan tees, dress shirts, and more.

Photo Credits: Blake, courtesy of subject (2)

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