The essentials: Boxy mohair jackets; many-breasted peacoats; slim Capris; pencil skirts; loose, silky tops; cadet hats; ballet slippers and oxfords.

The palette: Black, white, yellow, mustard, periwinkle, red, maroon, silver, pewter.

Bottom line: With his quirky fall collection, the newcomer combined bold colors and disparate silhouettes like a mad (and brilliant) scientist.