The essentials: Swing coats; fur jackets and vests; tartan pants, skirts, and dresses; wool skirt suits; beaded organza gowns; sequin dresses; textured tights; leather gloves.

The palette: Black, white, gray, lilac, periwinkle, poppy red (inspired by Edvard Munch's 1889 portrait of Hans Jaeger).

Bottom line: Herrera called on beads, ruffles, and cutouts to create chic optical illusions.

Beauty report: Easy updo's and muted makeup provided the perfect foil for Herrera's richly textured clothes.