Project Runway Review: Couture du Jour
Wednesday
The Challenge: Design an evening gown, using couture methods, in two days with a budget of 300 euros ($375).

The Judges:
Linda:
49-year-old designer with 20 years' professional experience; studied at both Parsons and the Fashion Institute of Technology.
Danielle:
36-year-old writer with 15 years' editorial experience; no formal fashion training.
Amy:
33-year-old stylist with 10 years' experience in television, film, theater, and print.

Linda's Take: These days, the term "couture" is used to describe a range of things: custom dresses, whimsical runway looks, sometimes even designer clothing itself. But in the strictest sense, it refers to garments whose details are executed by hand (hems, ruching, embroidery, beading, etc.). So it's difficult to create a true couture dress in only two days. Michael tried, but with the hand-ruched bodice he'd designed, each area had to be sewn with invisible pick-stitching--too ambitious a task for the time allotted and for his skill set. But fortunately, Michael's still with us because Vincent's glued dress was worse. Not only was the neckline atrocious; the bodice was gaping in the front, and the flower in the back was dreadful. Although Laura's gown was well constructed and the silhouette was beautiful, it's been done to death. I loved Kayne's net bodice and ombre skirt, but the brown ribbons and asymmetrical back lacing were gaudy. And although Jeffrey's design was compelling, where were the hand-details? The judges said the gown was couture, but if so, they must have changed their criteria at the last minute because draping alone doesn't make a garment couture. Of all the gowns, Uli's was the most couture because it did have those details, although it should be noted that she has made that exact same dress five times this season.
Scorecard: Uli 3.5; Kayne 3; Jeffrey 3; Laura 2; Michael 1; Vincent .5.

Danielle's Take: When looking at Vincent's dress, I was reminded of the very first episode of this season, when the challenge was to design outfits from the items contained in the contestants' apartments. In this case, Vincent seems to have raided a poor old woman's sofa to make the skirt of his gown. What's really ironic, though, is that at the start of this challenge he was going on about how he had training in couture, but when it came time to put those touches on his piece, well, he had no time. And so farewell, Vincent. I'll miss the cold chill you give me every time you say, "It gets me off." Now who will I make fun of? Laura? It's a shame her Cruella de Ville number depoufed on its way to New York. I kind of liked it when the collar was at full mast. And poor Michael. He was just having a bad challenge all around--what with the ruching troubles and the egg disaster on the Seine. He was in over his head and it showed. Back to couture school with you, Michael, so that you can bring it to the streets. (Wouldn't that be a sight?) I myself am originally from the streets of da Bronx, but I guess deep in my heart I'm white trash because I really like what Kayne does, and I totally adored this dress--the way the bodice glistened in the light and the skirt flowed like light-as-air lava. And again the Catholic school girl in me goes gaga over anything plaid and therefore Jeffrey's fabulous frock. True to his intent, it did make me smile. I was hard-pressed to decide whether I liked his or Uli's gown better. She turned out a silky stunner with perfect signature touches, but the braids in the back were a bit much and, in the end, tartan is always terrific in my book.
Scorecard: Jeffery 5; Uli 4; Kayne 3.5; Laura 2.75; Michael 2; Vincent 1.

Amy's Take: The moment Catherine Malandrino laid out the parameters of this challenge, I had a bad feeling about it. Project Runway plays it so fast and loose that most attempts at couture were destined to fail. That said, there were a few gowns that exceeded my expectations. My favorite was Uli's--elegant, flawlessly constructed, beautifully embellished. It was the same silhouette and twisted strap she's shown us several times, but it was also the most well-realized couture garment on the runway. While I liked Jeffrey's color choice and design, I would've preferred to have seen it a silk taffeta or some other fabric with more body; the material he used, presumably cotton, looked like a limp tablecloth when the model wasn't walking. As Nina observed, Laura's gown looked like a vintage YSL ripoff, and although Kayne's dress was a bit over-the-top, ultimately I thought it was a better showing than Laura's. Michael's design was a hot mess, but at least he admitted that--his ability to be self-critical is unusual on Project Runway and will serve him well in the future. Unfortunately, Vincent lacks that ability, and it showed: Although I quite like damask, the silhouette was so unflattering and the garment was so poorly constructed, I wasn't at all surprised he got the Auf.
Scorecard: Uli 4.5; Jeffery 4; Kayne 3.5; Laura 3; Michael 2; Vincent 1.

Judges' Total Tally: Uli 12; Jeffery 12; Kayne 10; Laura 7.75; Michael 5; Vincent 2.5.

EPISODE 9 CHECK-IN
(The judges' total tally, compiled for challenges 1 through 9).
Active Designers
Michael: 100
Uli: 95.5
Laura: 92.5
Jeffrey: 83.58
Kayne: 76.91

Auf'd Designers
(Reverse elimination order.)
Vincent: 51.5
Angela: 58
Robert: 55
Alison: 44
Bradley: 31.25
Bonnie: 33
Katherine: 20.75
Malan: 14.75
Stacey: 3

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