Long before Barbie ever met Ken, built her Dream House, or ran for president, Kewpie dolls were all the rage. And they, unlike their modern counterparts, didn’t come complete with 38-18-34 measurements; cherubic faces and devilish grins were their only real feminine features. Although the figures may seem a little kitschy today (unless you own a 1909 original version that’s worth thousands of dollars), the notion of a simultaneously angelic and impish doll is still intriguing—and it’s the packaging concept behind Anna Sui’s Dolly Girl fragrances, the newest of which has recently been released for summer.

Like its predecessor, the original Dolly Girl, Dolly Girl on the Beach ($35; victoriassecret.com) is a fresh, versatile blend of fruits and florals made with bergamot, amber, and musks (another Kewpie-encased scent, the 2004 limited-edition Ooh La Love, is more of a true soft floral). But while the two fragrances share a few notes and a similar bottle, the accords are actually quite different. At first spritz, you’ll smell Dolly Girl on the Beach’s zesty citruses (mandarin, bergamot, lemon), which give way to a mix of sweeter fruits (peach nectar, apple) and florals (freesia, lotus blossom, rose petals); the spicy cinnamon note in the longer-standing scent isn’t on the roster.

It may sound like a fairly typical fruity-floral, but dashes of marigold and blackcurrant (also signature notes in Sui’s Secret Wish) give the fragrance a uniqueness and complexity. From there, Dolly fades quickly into a sweet, airy aroma that you actually could wear on the beach without smelling foolish. Granted, the accord will be too light and youthful for some, but surfer girls—Sui’s favorite muses—are sure to savor it while the summer lasts. —Tara Mattarazzo

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